Anthony Lane eat your heart out. One can be a movie buff, literate, and discriminating and still really enjoy Star Trek.
It has action, adventure, some semblance of a story, lots of nice special effects (I love the Romulan starship), and a Brad Pitt look-alike for a hero.
Parts of the story don't quite hang together with the time travel stuff (a la Lost), but I think J. J. Abrams will help us out in the sequels.